Fits Women’s Medium to Large, about 8-8½ inches (20-22 cm) foot circumference and about 9½ inches (24 cm) in length. Because the Ribbed Stitch Pattern is stretchy and flexible, the socks can be made larger or smaller by going up or down a needle size and increasing or decreasing the length from back of heel to beginning of toe decreases.
Yarn – About 350-400 yards (320-366m) fingering-weight sock yarn (the exact amount needed depends on your sock size). I used a little less than 1 skein (350yd [320m]/100g) Sundara Yarns Somewhat Solid Sock Yarn (hand-dyed superwash two-ply Merino wool).
Needle – Set of 5 double-pointed needles, US 1 (2.25mm), or size needed to obtain gauge.
Notions – Stitch marker to mark beginning of round (optional), tapestry needle.
Gauge – 32 sts = 4 inches (10cm) in stockinette stitch.
A note about yarns: This pattern will work well with any hand-dyed yarn that has a subtle color scheme that’s either semisolid or only discretely contrasting. Yarns that have been dyed a more dramatic combination of colors may obscure the stitch motif.
Sl1: Slip 1 stitch as if to purl unless otherwise indicated.
K2tog: Knit 2 stitches together as a single stitch.
P2tog: Purl 2 stitches together as a single stitch.
SSK: Slip 2 stitches knitwise, one at a time, from left to right needle. Insert left needle into the front of the 2 slipped stitches and with right needle knit together through back loops.
Ribbed Stitch Pattern (multiple of 6 stitches)
Rounds 1 and 2: *K2, P1, K1, P2, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 3 and 4: *K1, P1, K2, P2, repeat from * to end of round.
Beginning at the cuff, loosely cast on 66 stitches, using a long-tail cast-on or your preferred method. I use a spare needle that is larger than my working needles for my cast-on row.
Divide the stitches as evenly as possible onto 4 needles. Join into a round, being careful not to twist the cast on row. Place a marker to indicate the beginning of the round.
Round 1: *K4, P2, repeat from * to end of round. Repeat this round for 1¼” (3cm, or approximately 12 rounds).
Begin the Ribbed Stitch Pattern. Work until cuff and leg measure a total of 6½” (16cm), or until desired length from the cuff to the beginning of the heel flap, ending with Round 4.
To center the Ribbed Stitch Pattern over the heel, work as follows:
Work 30 stitches in Round 1 of the Ribbed Stitch Pattern, ending with P2.
Turn, and work 32 stitches back and forth as follows:
Note: The numbers assigned to the pattern rows for the heel are not the same as for working in the round.
Row 1 (wrong side): Sl1, P5, (K2, P1, K1, P2) 3 times, K2, P6.
Place remaining 34 sts on 2 needles to rest while heel flap is completed.
Row 2 (right side): Sl1, K5, (P2, K1, P1, K2) 3 times, P2, K6.
Row 3: Sl1, P5, (K2, P2, K1, P1) 3 times, K2, P6.
Row 4: Sl1, K5, (P2, K2, P1, K1) 3 times, P2, K6.
Repeat these 4 rows a total of 8 times (32 rows), ending with Row 4.
Note: Unlike many other sock patterns, the heel on this sock begins on a wrong-side row and ends on a right-side row. This creates a smoother transition between the heel and where the stitches are picked up along the side of the heel flap. If you need a little extra reassurance during this step, you may want to read the Turn Heel section of the basic sock tutorial first.
Row 1 (wrong side): Sl1, P16, P2tog, P1, turn.
Row 2 (right side): Sl1, K3, SSK, K1, turn.
Row 3: Sl1, P to within 1 stitch of the gap, P2tog (1 st before, 1 st after gap), P1, turn.
Row 4: Sl1, K to within 1 stitch of the gap, SSK, K1, turn.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until all stitches are worked, ending with the final SSK, K1 on a right-side row. 18 stitches remain.
You’ll now begin to shape the gussets and knit around the sock again. For the time being, stitches will be distributed as follows:
Needle 1: Heel stitches and stitches to be picked up on first side of heel flap.
Needles 2 and 3: Instep stitches (worked in Ribbed Stitch Pattern).
Needle 4: Stitches to be picked up on second side of heel flap.
With Needle 1 (which holds all 18 heel stitches at the moment) pick up and knit 16 stitches along the side of the heel flap.
To eliminate the gap that forms as you turn the corner, pick up two stitches in the space between the gusset and the instep (one from each side of the gap). These will be decreased on the next round.
Resume working in the Ribbed Stitch Pattern (beginning with Round 1) across Needles 2 and 3.
With Needle 4 (empty at the moment) pick up 2 stitches between the instep and the gusset as you did at the end of Needle 1, and then pick up 16 stitches along the side of the heel flap. Knit 9 stitches (half the heel) from Needle 1. The round now begins at the center of the heel.
Stitches will now be distributed as follows:
Needle 1: (Beginning of round) ½ heel, gusset, 2 extra stitches (27 stitches).
Needles 2 and 3: Instep (34 stitches).
Needle 4: 2 extra stitches, gusset, ½ heel (27 stitches).
Total: 88 stitches.
Round 1: On needle 1, K across to last 2 stitches, K2tog; on Needles 2 and 3, continue instep in Ribbed Stitch Pattern; on Needle 4, SSK, K to end.
Round 2: On needle 1, K to last 3 stitches, K2tog, K1; on needles 2 and 3, continue instep in Ribbed Stitch Pattern; on needle 4, K1, SSK, K to end.
Round 3: On needle 1, K; on needles 2 and 3, continue instep in Ribbed Stitch Pattern; on needle 4, K to end.
Repeat Rounds 2 and 3 until 64 stitches remain (30 stitches in stockinette stitch on bottom of foot, 34 stitches in Ribbed Stitch Pattern on instep).
Continue working in stockinette stitch on Needles 1 and 4 and in Ribbed Stitch Pattern on Needles 2 and 3 until the sock measures about 7½ inches (19cm), or 2 inches (5cm) shorter than desired foot length. End with Row 2 or 4 of the Ribbed Stitch Pattern.
For remainder of sock, knit all stitches.
Decrease Round 1: *K6, K2tog* repeat from * to * around (56 stitches).
Knit 5 rounds.
Decrease Round 2: *K5, K2tog* repeat from * to * around (48 stitches).
Knit 4 rounds.
Decrease Round 3: *K4, K2tog* repeat from * to * around (40 stitches).
Knit 3 rounds.
Decrease Round 4: *K3, K2tog* repeat from * to * around (32 stitches).
Knit 2 rounds.
Decrease Round 5: *K2, K2tog* repeat from * to * around (24 stitches).
Knit 1 round.
Decrease Round 6: *K1, K2tog* repeat from * to * around (16 stitches).
Decrease Round 7: K2tog around (8 stitches).
Cut yarn, thread tail through the remaining stitches, and secure. Weave in all ends.